Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Lawn-tractor care !

Lawn tractors are among the most repair-prone products we test, according to our annual surveys. At several hundred pounds, they're also a handful to transport to the repair shop, where you'll typically pay $50 to $75 per hour once you get an appointment. While new-tractor prices have dropped in recent years, you'll still pay $1,500 or more for most competent models (See our lawn tractor Ratings and recommendations.)

Some simple at-home upkeep can help you avoid those expenses and the time and hassle of getting a broken tractor to a shop. Much of that maintenance involves the gas engine that runs all lawn tractors. Here's what to do and when to do it:
When the mowing season begins:
  • Unless the battery is maintenance-free, check its electrolyte level and top off each cell with distilled water as needed. Some batteries are mounted beneath the seat, some under the hood.
  • Tighten the two cables if they're loose on their terminals--a common no-start culprit.
  • Recharge the battery if needed. Use a portable charger or power pack.
  • Check connections to other electrical parts, such as lights, gauges, and the ignition key, and tighten or clean as needed.
  • Hose off or scrape old clippings from beneath the mowing deck. (Hint: Drive the front of the tractor onto car ramps for access if the deck lacks a garden-hose connection.) Caked-on clippings compromise mulching and bagging by upsetting airflow beneath. When using a hose, avoid getting the engine and transmission wet.
  • Have blades sharpened if you didn't do it before winter storage. Blades should be sharpened at least once each mowing season.
  • Be sure tires are properly inflated. Most require 10 to 14 pounds per square inch (psi); check the owner's manual.
During the mowing season:
  • Check that the oil-dipstick level is at or near the full mark. Add more if needed, but don't overfill. Too little oil can damage or destroy the engine by leaving parts unlubricated; too much can also underlubricate by causing air bubbles.
  • Check tires visually before each use.
  • Hose or scrape old clippings from beneath the mowing deck.
  • Regularly check belts/chain drives for wear and tightness.
Before winter storage:
  • Have blades sharpened.
  • Replace spark plugs.
  • Replace the carburetor air filter if it's paper. Wash foam filters in soap and water, rinse and squeeze dry, then oil with engine oil and squeeze dry again before reinstalling.
  • Replace the fuel filter. You'll find it on the hose leading to the carburetor.
  • Replace old engine oil and dispose of it properly at a collection center.
  • Add stabilizer to the fuel tank at the end of the mowing season. Let the engine run until fuel runs out.
  • Remove and keep the battery charged with a trickle charger during long storage.
See our Ratings and recommendations for push mowersself-propelled mowers, and lawn tractors).

 

Sunday, March 23, 2014

How To Keep your Tractor,Lawnmower in Tip Top Shape?

It is easy and important to tune-up your tractor, lawn mower, or anything that uses a small gasoline engine. The procedure that is laid out here assumes that you have basic mechanical skills and the correct tools to complete the job at hand.
Consult your owner's manual for specific guidelines and recommendations for your power equipment.

1) Lets Start with a Good Clean-Up

A little soap and water will make the job easier. If you have a pressure washer, feel free to use it. If you are using 1000+ PSI, be careful not to force dirt and water into the bearings, this may damage them. The high pressure spray will also wash away any lubricant that it hits.
After a good cleaning, dry off your machine with a clean soft cloth.

2) Inspect the Deck, Belts, and Blades

If anything is broken or worn, replace it now. Check out our selection of lawn mower parts here at Jack's. Check your blades to see if they are loose or worn. Any movement more than 1/8" should be investigated. Make sure you replace any guides that you remove or are missing.
If you have the deck off or tractor jacked up, remove the blades and have them sharpened. You can get the blades off by blocking the blade with a Blade Lock and unscrewing the blade bolt or nut. Wearing gloves is a good idea, especially when re-installing the sharpened or new blades.
Replace belts that have any signs of wear or are 4 seasons old. That way you are guaranteed to get through the next cutting season without any hassle having to replace more belts. Also check out our list of common causes of belt problems.

3) Lubricate and Check Air Pressure

Refer to your owner's manual to determine the right kind of lube that should be applied. Also, test the air in the tires for correct pressure. Low tire pressure can affect the quality of cut. Air pressure specs will be in the manual, too.

4) Change the Oil

  • Check the oil level. If it's ok, start the engine and allow it to warm up. This will make the oil easier to drain.
  • Shut off the engine and drain the oil into a receptacle. For cleaner oil extraction, use an Oil Pump to remove the oil. Don't forget to replace the drain plug before refilling.
  • If your engine is equipped with an oil filter, change it now. Fill the new oil filter with enough oil. This will prevent a dry engine start up. Then refill the engine with the proper engine oil.

5) Replace the Fuel Filter

Fuel filters are an essential part in keeping your small engine running efficiently. Begin changing the fuel filter by clamping off the fuel line between the tank and the fuel filter. Remove the filter by loosening the clamps, then pull it out of the hose. Be careful to catch any gasoline that may spill.
Always replace the hose that is between the filter and the carburetor. Barbs on the fuel filter can tear the inside of the hose when it's removed. A piece of hose could enter the carb and cause serious problems.

6) Clean or Replace the Air Filter

Air filters ensure proper air flow to the carburetor. Clean or replace them as necessary. Be careful if you have an air compressor. Do not use high pressure that will create small holes in the filter.

7) Inspect Engine Covers

Grass clippings and debris can gather on the cooling covers of your engine, also preventing proper air flow. You should clean clippings and debris off your machine after each use. If your mower has been in storage, check under the covers for signs of rodent nests (mice). They love making your equipment their winter home.

8) Replace Spark Plugs

Replacing your spark plugs helps you get an easy start every time. If the plug is in a hard to reach area, use a piece of 1/4" fuel line to hold the plug. Then turn the hose to hand tighten the plug. Always thread the plug as far as it will go (or at least 2 full turns) by hand. Torque the spark plug to the manufacturers specifications.

9) Check the Battery

The battery is often overlooked. It needs service, even if it started your unit right up. Just looking at the battery can save you from trouble later on.
If the case looks bulged, replace the battery. Measure the voltage. If the voltage is below 9 volts, the battery probably will not last much longer. Inspect the terminals to make sure they are clean and tight. If not, fix them now or replace the bad battery parts. Fill the battery with water to the full mark and charge it with a battery charger.

10) Final Look-Over

While you are working around the mower, grab and shake things as you go. This is to help locate loose or missing parts. Rock the wheels to see if the bearings are loose or worn. Check the ball joints for signs of wear.
Are all the deck hangers tight? Look for loose or missing bolts, clips or pins. Check the electrical wiring plugs too. It could save you a big repair bill later in the season.
You're done! After a tune-up, you'll be ready to tackle those lawn chores. Happy Mowing!

     

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Poulan Pro Duralite Chainsaw

Poulan Pro Duralite Chainsaw. 40cc. Good Condition, ready to cut! Must see to appreciate. Please enquire for further details .

We are a Stens Distributor , the world's largest parts warehouse in the nation. The carrier of Universal lawnmower blades ( 20", 21", and 22"). These blades will fit all self-propelled and push mowers. Also carry cables( throttle and control cables ). Some of the other items that we carry are primer bulbs, repair kits for most carburetors, kill switches for the lawnmowers, motor oil for 2 and 4 cycle mowers and trimmers, STP Gas Treatment, Gumout Cleaner and other items on the product line. If interested in a particular item, please call the following number: (239) 288 - 5152.


WE NOW HAVE THE EQUIPMENT TO STRAIGHTEN LAWNMOWER SHAFTS. HOWEVER, THE SHAFT MUST BE AT LEAST 2 3/4 " FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE BASE PLATE.

**** WE CLEAN, REBUILD, AND RESTORE ALL PRESSURE WASHERS & PUMPS ****
( SPIDER PUMPS, CAP PUMPS, & COMET PUMPS )

****** WE ARE A LICENSED FLORIDA BUSINESS ******

****** WE NOW ACCEPT ALL MAJOR CREDIT & DEBIT CARDS ******

TERRY'S SMALL ENGINE REPAIR
401 NEW YORK DRIVE
FORT MYERS , FL 33905

SHOP PHONE: 239-288-5152

¼ MILE NORTH OF PALM BEACH BLVD AT THE CORNER OF WALTER STREET.

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK!

MONDAY -- SATURDAY: 8:00 AM -- 8:00 PM

SUNDAY -- 8:00 AM -- 8:00 PM

SEE YA SOON!

Monday, March 10, 2014

Poulan 2000 " Woodsman " Chainsaw - $ 125.00

Poulan 2000 " Woodsman " Chainsaw. 16" Reduced Kickback Guidebar. Excellent running / working condition. Won't last long. Any further questions?

Terry's Small Engine Repair
401 New York Drive
Fort Myers , FL 33905

Located 1/4 Mile North of Palm Beach Boulevard ( Corner of Walter and Railroad Street )

We are a Stens Distributor ; world's largest parts warehouse in the nation . Carrier of universal Lawnmower blades. some of the other items that we carry are primer bulbs ( all sizes ) , repair kits for most carburetors , kill switches for most lawnmowers, motor oil for 2 and 4 cycle mowers and trimmers, STP Gas Treatment, Gumout cleaner and other items . If interested in a particular item , please call either Karin or Terry at the following number: (239) 288 - 5152.

We now have the equipment to straighten lawnmower shafts . However, the shaft has to be at least 2 3/4 " from the top to the base of the shaft .

Sunday, March 9, 2014

How to Tune-Up Your Lawn Mower or Tractor !


How to Tune-Up Your Lawn Mower or Tractor

How to Tune-Up Your Lawn Mower or TractorPosted in Lawn Mowers and Small Engines
It is easy and important to tune-up your tractor, lawn mower, or anything that uses a small gasoline engine. The procedure that is laid out here assumes that you have basic mechanical skills and the correct tools to complete the job at hand.
Consult your owner's manual for specific guidelines and recommendations for your power equipment.

1) Lets Start with a Good Clean-Up

A little soap and water will make the job easier. If you have a pressure washer, feel free to use it. If you are using 1000+ PSI, be careful not to force dirt and water into the bearings, this may damage them. The high pressure spray will also wash away any lubricant that it hits.
After a good cleaning, dry off your machine with a clean soft cloth.

2) Inspect the Deck, Belts, and Blades

If anything is broken or worn, replace it now. Check out our selection of lawn mower parts here at Jack's. Check your blades to see if they are loose or worn. Any movement more than 1/8" should be investigated. Make sure you replace any guides that you remove or are missing.
If you have the deck off or tractor jacked up, remove the blades and have them sharpened. You can get the blades off by blocking the blade with a Blade Lock and unscrewing the blade bolt or nut. Wearing gloves is a good idea, especially when re-installing the sharpened or new blades.
Replace belts that have any signs of wear or are 4 seasons old. That way you are guaranteed to get through the next cutting season without any hassle having to replace more belts. Also check out our list of common causes of belt problems.

3) Lubricate and Check Air Pressure

Refer to your owner's manual to determine the right kind of lube that should be applied. Also, test the air in the tires for correct pressure. Low tire pressure can affect the quality of cut. Air pressure specs will be in the manual, too.

4) Change the Oil

  • Check the oil level. If it's ok, start the engine and allow it to warm up. This will make the oil easier to drain.
  • Shut off the engine and drain the oil into a receptacle. For cleaner oil extraction, use an Oil Pump to remove the oil. Don't forget to replace the drain plug before refilling.
  • If your engine is equipped with an oil filter, change it now. Fill the new oil filter with enough oil. This will prevent a dry engine start up. Then refill the engine with the proper engine oil.

5) Replace the Fuel Filter

Fuel filters are an essential part in keeping your small engine running efficiently. Begin changing the fuel filter by clamping off the fuel line between the tank and the fuel filter. Remove the filter by loosening the clamps, then pull it out of the hose. Be careful to catch any gasoline that may spill.
Always replace the hose that is between the filter and the carburetor. Barbs on the fuel filter can tear the inside of the hose when it's removed. A piece of hose could enter the carb and cause serious problems.

6) Clean or Replace the Air Filter

Air filters ensure proper air flow to the carburetor. Clean or replace them as necessary. Be careful if you have an air compressor. Do not use high pressure that will create small holes in the filter.

7) Inspect Engine Covers

Grass clippings and debris can gather on the cooling covers of your engine, also preventing proper air flow. You should clean clippings and debris off your machine after each use. If your mower has been in storage, check under the covers for signs of rodent nests (mice). They love making your equipment their winter home.

8) Replace Spark Plugs

Replacing your spark plugs helps you get an easy start every time. If the plug is in a hard to reach area, use a piece of 1/4" fuel line to hold the plug. Then turn the hose to hand tighten the plug. Always thread the plug as far as it will go (or at least 2 full turns) by hand. Torque the spark plug to the manufacturers specifications.

9) Check the Battery

The battery is often overlooked. It needs service, even if it started your unit right up. Just looking at the battery can save you from trouble later on.
If the case looks bulged, replace the battery. Measure the voltage. If the voltage is below 9 volts, the battery probably will not last much longer. Inspect the terminals to make sure they are clean and tight. If not, fix them now or replace the bad battery parts. Fill the battery with water to the full mark and charge it with a battery charger.

10) Final Look-Over

While you are working around the mower, grab and shake things as you go. This is to help locate loose or missing parts. Rock the wheels to see if the bearings are loose or worn. Check the ball joints for signs of wear.
Are all the deck hangers tight? Look for loose or missing bolts, clips or pins. Check the electrical wiring plugs too. It could save you a big repair bill later in the season.
You're done! After a tune-up, you'll be ready to tackle those lawn chores. Happy Mowing!

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Expand - It Ryobi SS30 Straight Shaft Trimmer - $ 150.00

EXPAND - IT RYOBI SS30 STRAIGHT SHAFT TRIMMER . EXCELLENT TOOL IN ANY YARD PERSON'S ARSENAL. EXCELLENT RUNNING CONDITION. FOR FURTHER DETAILS , PLEASE ENQUIRE AT:
 We are a Stens Distributor , the world's largest parts warehouse in the nation. The carrier of Universal lawnmower blades ( 20", 21", and 22"). These blades will fit all self-propelled and push mowers. Also carry cables( throttle and control cables ). Some of the other items that we carry are primer bulbs, repair kits for most carburetors, kill switches for the lawnmowers, motor oil for 2 and 4 cycle mowers and trimmers, STP Gas Treatment, Gumout Cleaner and other items on the product line. If interested in a particular item, please call the following number:
(239) 288 - 5152.


WE NOW HAVE THE EQUIPMENT TO STRAIGHTEN LAWNMOWER SHAFTS. HOWEVER, THE SHAFT MUST BE AT LEAST 2 3/4 " FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE BASE PLATE.

**** WE CLEAN, REBUILD, AND RESTORE ALL PRESSURE WASHERS & PUMPS ****
( SPIDER PUMPS, CAP PUMPS, & COMET PUMPS )


Terry's Small Engine Repair Service
401 New York Drive
Fort Myers , FL 33905-3447

1/4 mile north of Palm Beach Boulevard ( Corner of Walter & Railroad Street ).

SHOP PHONE: 239-288-5152

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK!

MONDAY - SATURDAY - 8:00AM - 8:00PM

SUNDAY -- 8:00 AM -- 8:00 PM

SEE YA SOON!


Sunday, March 2, 2014

How to Repair Small Engines ?

Small gas engines serve us in many ways. They power lawn mowers, tillers, cultivators, trimmers, edgers, snowblowers, chain saws, pumps, generators, air compressors, and other useful home tools. They also power our fun: outboard boats, snowmobiles, motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles, ultralight aircraft, and other toys. To keep them operating efficiently, an owner of these tools and toys should know about small engines: how they work and what to do when they don't.
Small gas engines are made up of individual systems that work together to produce power. Each system has many components. Internal combustion gasoline-powered engines require six systems: fuel, exhaust, ignition, combustion, cooling, and lubrication. In this article, we will discuss the systems and components that make small engines work.

Fuel and Exhaust

The fuel and exhaust systems are critical to operation. They furnish the fuel for combustion and remove exhaust gases. The following are components of a fuel and exhaust system.
Gasoline: Gasoline is a combustible liquid that burns relatively slowly. However, when sprayed as a mist and mixed with air, it is quite explosive. All it needs is a spark. Two-stroke engines require that oil be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate internal parts. Four-stroke engines use a fuel-air mixture.
Fuel Tank: The fuel tank stores fuel in preparation for mixing by the carburetor and use by the engine. Some fuel tanks are pressurized with air to help deliver fuel to the carburetor. Other tanks are non-pressurized and depend on a fuel pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor.
Fuel Line: Fuel is moved from the tank to the pump and/or carburetor through a fuel line. Pressurized fuel systems often have a squeeze bulb in the fuel line for building pressure.
Filter: A carburetor jet has a small opening that can easily become clogged. A fuel filter traps dirt and sediment from the gas before it is delivered to the carburetor.
Pump: A fuel pump produces a vacuum that pulls the fuel from an unpressurized tank, then delivers it to the carburetor.
Carburetor: The carburetor has one job: to mix the correct proportion of gasoline and air for the engine. Too much gasoline in the mixture makes it rich; too little gas makes it lean.
Throttle: The throttle controls the amount of fuel-air mixture that enters the engine from the carburetor. The throttle thus controls the speed of the engine.
Primer: A primer injects a small amount of gasoline into the carburetor throat to make the initial fuel-air mixture rich. A primer is used to help start a cold engine.
Choke: Some engines control the richness of the fuel-air mixture at startup by controlling the air rather than the fuel. A choke reduces the amount of air in the fuel-air mixture.
Governor: A governor is a device that automatically opens the engine's throttle when more power is needed and closes it when the load is light.
Muffler: Small gas engines, especially two-stroke engines, are noisy when they operate. A muffler reduces the sound of the exhaust gases by passing them through baffles.
Spark Arrestor: A spark can exit the exhaust port of a small gas engine, potentially starting a fire on nearby combustibles. A spark arrestor on the exhaust port can reduce the chances of such a fire. Spark arrestors are especially important on chain saws, motorcycles, and all-terrain vehicles operated in dry woodlands.

Ignition

The ignition is a primary system within all small gas engines. It produces and delivers the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture to cause combustion. No spark means no combustion, which means your engine doesn't run. Below are the components found in small engine ignition systems. Some systems will include breaker point ignitions while others depend on solid-state ignitions.
Magneto-Powered Ignition System: A magneto uses magnetism to supply electricity in ignitions where there is no battery. The magneto is turned by the crankshaft, which rotates when the manual recoil starter is pulled. The three types of magneto ignition systems are mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled.
Battery-Powered Ignition System: If your small engine includes a battery for starting, the ignition coil will also use it to supply spark to the spark plugs. A battery stores electrical energy until needed. Battery ignition systems also use mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled ignitions.
Mechanical-Breaker Ignitions: High-voltage electricity must be sent to the spark plug at the appropriate time. In mechanical-breaker ignitions, this job is performed through the contact points and a condenser.
Points: As the crankshaft rotates, a cam opens and closes a set of contact points. These points function as an on/off switch: Closed is on, and open is off.
Condenser: Because the spark moving across points can damage their surfaces, the condenser stores voltage to reduce arcing between points.
Capacitor-Discharge Ignitions (CDI): A capacitor is a large condenser. A CDI stores and delivers voltage to the coil using magnets, diodes, and a capacitor
Transistor-Controlled Ignitions (TCI): Transistors are electronic controllers. A TCI uses transistors, resistors, and diodes to control the timing of the spark.
Coil: An ignition coil is simply two coils of wire wrapped around an iron core. The coil changes low voltage (6 or 12 volts) into the high voltage (15,000 to 30,000 volts) needed by the spark plug.
Spark Plug: A spark plug is an insulated electrode that is screwed into the top of the engine cylinder. High-voltage timed electricity from the magneto travels by wire to the spark plug. The base of the plug has an air gap of about 0.030 inch (30 thousandths of an inch), which the current must jump.
Wires: The primary wire from the coil to the breaker point and secondary wire from the coil to the spark plug(s) deliver electricity to the ignition components.
Distributor: A distributor is an ignition system for engines with more than one cylinder and spark plug. It distributes the spark to the appropriate cylinder using a rotor, cap, and individual spark plug wires.

Combustion

The combustion system of a small gas engine is where the work gets done. Components of the combustion system include the cylinder block, cylinder head, camshaft, valves, piston, connecting rod, crankshaft, timing gears, and flywheel. To better understand small gas engines, let's look at how this vital system works.

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Small Engine Repair How to's

Welcome to the DONYBOY73 YouTube channel!

If you want to learn how to repair your small engines and outdoor power equipment for free then stick around and watch a few of my videos.

Don't forget to subscribe, it's free…


http://www.youtube.com/DONYBOY73