Saturday, April 26, 2014

Maintaining Your Lawn Equipment !

Yard equipment is expensive to purchase—and can become dangerous and prone to costly repairs if some simple maintenance checks aren't followed.
For example, the average lawn mower needs to be replaced every six years, but you can extend its life by keeping the blade sharp and following these tips from one of our readers to regularly clean the mower deck. Lawn tractors are among the most repair-prone products we test, but again, some regular precautions (including proper battery storage) will ensure trouble-free operation.
Hedge and string trimmers, garden tillers and chain saws require less maintenance, but will last longer and cut better if you perform a few simple maintenance steps. One especially crucial one is to run the machines' gas tanks dry or stabilize the gasoline before storing them away for the winter.
The links at left detail simple checks and essential maintenance you should perform before, during and at the end of the season for each of these types of lawn equipment. You can also share tips and pitfalls to avoid in our lawn mower and tractor and other lawn and garden equipment forums.

Lawn-mower care

Mowers are replaced every six years, on average, according to the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute, an industry trade group. But yours can last much longer than that with the right care. Simple, routine maintenance can also save you the $50 to $75 per hour you'll pay a repair shop and the $300 to $600 or more you'll shell out for many new push and self-propelled mowers. (See our Ratings and recommendations for push mowers and self-propelledmowers.)
Clearing away small stumps, bricks, and other obstacles is one way to protect your mower from an early death, since hitting them with the blade is a common way to destroy these machines. Here's what else you can do and when to do it:
When the mowing season begins:
  • For four-stroke gas mowers, check that the oil dipstick level is at or near the full mark. Add more if necessary, but don't overfill. Too little oil can damage or destroy the engine by leaving parts unlubricated; too much can also underlubricate by causing air bubbles.
  • For two-stroke gas models, mix fresh gasoline and two-cycle oil according to the ratio recommended in the owner's manual. Too little oil can damage the engine by underlubricating vital parts; too much can cause poor running, excess exhaust emissions, and fouled spark plugs.
  • Hose or scrape off old clippings from beneath the mowing deck using a plastic putty knife immediately after each mowing. This way clippings do not dry to the deck, which makes them harder to remove. Caked-on clippings can compromise mulching and bagging by upsetting airflow beneath. Clippings can also corrode metal decks--one reason why mowers are replaced. Caution: On gas mowers, disconnect the spark-plug wire first.
  • Check a gas mower's pull-start cord and replace it if it's frayed.
  • Check an electric mower's power cord and replace it if it shows cracks or other damage.
  • Have any mower's blade sharpened if you didn't do it before winter storage. Blades should be sharpened at least once each mowing season to cut evenly and avoid tearing the grass.
During the mowing season:
  • Hose or scrape off old clippings from beneath the deck.
  • Remove grass and debris from a gas engine's cooling fins, engine covers, and air-intake screens after each use to help prevent engine overheating.
  • If your mower has a manual engine-speed control, be sure it's properly adjusted.
  • Regularly check belts/chain drives for wear and tightness.
Before winter storage:
  • Add stabilizer to a gas mower's fuel tank at the end of the mowing season. Let the engine run until fuel runs out.
  • Remove a gas engine's spark plug and pour an ounce of oil into the cylinder. Slowly pull the starter cord to distribute the oil on moving parts and help prevent rust. Then reinstall the plug.
  • Replace the spark plug every 100 hours of operation (roughly every four years). Have the blade sharpened.
  • Replace a gas engine's carburetor air filter if it's paper. Wash foam filters in soap and water, rinse and squeeze dry, then oil with engine oil and squeeze dry again before reinstalling.
  • Replace old engine oil on four-stroke engines and properly dispose of it at a collection center. Two-stroke engines don't require this, since they burn a small amount of oil with the gas.
  • Fold the handlebar to save space, then store the mower in a dry, ventilated area. On concrete floors, put plastic beneath the mower to help prevent moisture from corroding the deck.
See our Ratings and recommendations for push mowersself-propelled mowers, and lawn tractors).

Lawn-tractor care

Lawn tractors are among the most repair-prone products we test, according to our annual surveys. At several hundred pounds, they're also a handful to transport to the repair shop, where you'll typically pay $50 to $75 per hour once you get an appointment. While new-tractor prices have dropped in recent years, you'll still pay $1,500 or more for most competent models (See our lawn tractor Ratings and recommendations.)
Some simple at-home upkeep can help you avoid those expenses and the time and hassle of getting a broken tractor to a shop. Much of that maintenance involves the gas engine that runs all lawn tractors. Here's what to do and when to do it:
When the mowing season begins:
  • Unless the battery is maintenance-free, check its electrolyte level and top off each cell with distilled water as needed. Some batteries are mounted beneath the seat, some under the hood.
  • Tighten the two cables if they're loose on their terminals--a common no-start culprit.
  • Recharge the battery if needed. Use a portable charger or power pack.
  • Check connections to other electrical parts, such as lights, gauges, and the ignition key, and tighten or clean as needed.
  • Hose off or scrape old clippings from beneath the mowing deck. (Hint: Drive the front of the tractor onto car ramps for access if the deck lacks a garden-hose connection.) Caked-on clippings compromise mulching and bagging by upsetting airflow beneath. When using a hose, avoid getting the engine and transmission wet.
  • Have blades sharpened if you didn't do it before winter storage. Blades should be sharpened at least once each mowing season.
  • Be sure tires are properly inflated. Most require 10 to 14 pounds per square inch (psi); check the owner's manual.
During the mowing season:
  • Check that the oil-dipstick level is at or near the full mark. Add more if needed, but don't overfill. Too little oil can damage or destroy the engine by leaving parts unlubricated; too much can also underlubricate by causing air bubbles.
  • Check tires visually before each use.
  • Hose or scrape old clippings from beneath the mowing deck.
  • Regularly check belts/chain drives for wear and tightness.
Before winter storage:
  • Have blades sharpened.
  • Replace spark plugs.
  • Replace the carburetor air filter if it's paper. Wash foam filters in soap and water, rinse and squeeze dry, then oil with engine oil and squeeze dry again before reinstalling.
  • Replace the fuel filter. You'll find it on the hose leading to the carburetor.
  • Replace old engine oil and dispose of it properly at a collection center.
  • Add stabilizer to the fuel tank at the end of the mowing season. Let the engine run until fuel runs out.
  • Remove and keep the battery charged with a trickle charger during long storage.
See our Ratings and recommendations for push mowersself-propelled mowers, and lawn tractors).

Monday, April 21, 2014

What to do if your lawn mower won’t start?

What to do if your lawn mower won’t start

When you dust off your mower, push it into the springtime sun, you can nearly smell the freshly-mowed lawn. But if you’re like us, every once and a while, you’ll find that the engine won’t start.
If your lawn mower won’t start, the first thing I’d do is use an ignition/spark tester.
As the owner and operator of a residential and commercial landscaping care business for 25+ years, an ignition/spark tester was my go-to tool if an engine failed to start. With an easy-to-read terminal screen, this tester helps you troubleshoot and determine the most likely cause of the equipment’s failure to start such as a dead spark plug, a bad ignition coil or something else. It will save you a lot of time.
RepairClinic has free troubleshooting and repair help information for this lawn mower problem and many others.
The most likely cause of a lawn mower engine not starting
There are many causes for engine failure but by far, the most common cause is a faulty spark plug.
Fortunately, replacing a spark plug is simple.
Always read your lawn mower’s owner manual’s instructions for spark plug replacement. Be sure to use the exact spark plug recommended for your engine. Using an alternative spark plug can cause serious engine problems.
Here’s how to replace a lawn mower engine spark plug:
  1. Make sure the engine is cool.
  2. Remove the wire and boot from the spark plug.
  3. Use a spark plug wrench to remove the old spark plug.
  4. Install the new spark plug with care by tightening it onto the cylinder head. Be careful not to over tighten or damage the plug.
  5. Attach the spark plug wire and boot.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

How to Repair Small Engines !

Small gas engines serve us in many ways. They power lawn mowers, tillers, cultivators, trimmers, edgers, snowblowers, chain saws, pumps, generators, air compressors, and other useful home tools. They also power our fun: outboard boats, snowmobiles, motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles, ultralight aircraft, and other toys. To keep them operating efficiently, an owner of these tools and toys should know about small engines: how they work and what to do when they don't.
Small gas engines are made up of individual systems that work together to produce power. Each system has many components. Internal combustion gasoline-powered engines require six systems: fuel, exhaust, ignition, combustion, cooling, and lubrication. In this article, we will discuss the systems and components that make small engines work.

Fuel and Exhaust

The fuel and exhaust systems are critical to operation. They furnish the fuel for combustion and remove exhaust gases. The following are components of a fuel and exhaust system.
Gasoline: Gasoline is a combustible liquid that burns relatively slowly. However, when sprayed as a mist and mixed with air, it is quite explosive. All it needs is a spark. Two-stroke engines require that oil be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate internal parts. Four-stroke engines use a fuel-air mixture.
Fuel Tank: The fuel tank stores fuel in preparation for mixing by the carburetor and use by the engine. Some fuel tanks are pressurized with air to help deliver fuel to the carburetor. Other tanks are non-pressurized and depend on a fuel pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor.
Fuel Line: Fuel is moved from the tank to the pump and/or carburetor through a fuel line. Pressurized fuel systems often have a squeeze bulb in the fuel line for building pressure.
Filter: A carburetor jet has a small opening that can easily become clogged. A fuel filter traps dirt and sediment from the gas before it is delivered to the carburetor.
Pump: A fuel pump produces a vacuum that pulls the fuel from an unpressurized tank, then delivers it to the carburetor.
Carburetor: The carburetor has one job: to mix the correct proportion of gasoline and air for the engine. Too much gasoline in the mixture makes it rich; too little gas makes it lean.
Throttle: The throttle controls the amount of fuel-air mixture that enters the engine from the carburetor. The throttle thus controls the speed of the engine.
Primer: A primer injects a small amount of gasoline into the carburetor throat to make the initial fuel-air mixture rich. A primer is used to help start a cold engine.
Choke: Some engines control the richness of the fuel-air mixture at startup by controlling the air rather than the fuel. A choke reduces the amount of air in the fuel-air mixture.
Governor: A governor is a device that automatically opens the engine's throttle when more power is needed and closes it when the load is light.
Muffler: Small gas engines, especially two-stroke engines, are noisy when they operate. A muffler reduces the sound of the exhaust gases by passing them through baffles.
Spark Arrestor: A spark can exit the exhaust port of a small gas engine, potentially starting a fire on nearby combustibles. A spark arrestor on the exhaust port can reduce the chances of such a fire. Spark arrestors are especially important on chain saws, motorcycles, and all-terrain vehicles operated in dry woodlands.

Ignition

The ignition is a primary system within all small gas engines. It produces and delivers the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture to cause combustion. No spark means no combustion, which means your engine doesn't run. Below are the components found in small engine ignition systems. Some systems will include breaker point ignitions while others depend on solid-state ignitions.
Magneto-Powered Ignition System: A magneto uses magnetism to supply electricity in ignitions where there is no battery. The magneto is turned by the crankshaft, which rotates when the manual recoil starter is pulled. The three types of magneto ignition systems are mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled.
Battery-Powered Ignition System: If your small engine includes a battery for starting, the ignition coil will also use it to supply spark to the spark plugs. A battery stores electrical energy until needed. Battery ignition systems also use mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled ignitions.
Mechanical-Breaker Ignitions: High-voltage electricity must be sent to the spark plug at the appropriate time. In mechanical-breaker ignitions, this job is performed through the contact points and a condenser.
Points: As the crankshaft rotates, a cam opens and closes a set of contact points. These points function as an on/off switch: Closed is on, and open is off.
Condenser: Because the spark moving across points can damage their surfaces, the condenser stores voltage to reduce arcing between points.
Capacitor-Discharge Ignitions (CDI): A capacitor is a large condenser. A CDI stores and delivers voltage to the coil using magnets, diodes, and a capacitor
Transistor-Controlled Ignitions (TCI): Transistors are electronic controllers. A TCI uses transistors, resistors, and diodes to control the timing of the spark.
Coil: An ignition coil is simply two coils of wire wrapped around an iron core. The coil changes low voltage (6 or 12 volts) into the high voltage (15,000 to 30,000 volts) needed by the spark plug.
Spark Plug: A spark plug is an insulated electrode that is screwed into the top of the engine cylinder. High-voltage timed electricity from the magneto travels by wire to the spark plug. The base of the plug has an air gap of about 0.030 inch (30 thousandths of an inch), which the current must jump.
Wires: The primary wire from the coil to the breaker point and secondary wire from the coil to the spark plug(s) deliver electricity to the ignition components.
Distributor: A distributor is an ignition system for engines with more than one cylinder and spark plug. It distributes the spark to the appropriate cylinder using a rotor, cap, and individual spark plug wires.

Combustion

The combustion system of a small gas engine is where the work gets done. Components of the combustion system include the cylinder block, cylinder head, camshaft, valves, piston, connecting rod, crankshaft, timing gears, and flywheel. To better understand small gas engines, let's look at how this vital system works.
Cylinder Block: The largest single part in a small gas engine is the cylinder block. It is a piece of metal in which the cylinder hole is bored or placed.
Cylinder Head: The cylinder head is the top, or ceiling, of the cylinder and is attached to the block with bolts. Depending on the type of engine, the head may or may not include valves.
Piston: A piston is the movable floor in the combustion chamber. Its upward movement compresses the fuel-air mixture. After combustion, its downward movement rotates the crankshaft.
Crankshaft: An engine's crankshaft is a metal shaft with an offset section onto which the connecting rod is attached. Rotation of the crankshaft moves the piston up in the cylinder. Movement of the piston down in the cylinder then rotates the crankshaft.
Connecting Rod: Between the piston and the crankshaft is a connecting rod. At the larger end of the connecting rod is a bearing that allows rotation around the moving crankshaft. The small end is attached to the piston pin.
Valves: Valves simply open and close passages. A reed valve in a two-stroke engine is activated by changes in air pressure.
Flywheel: At the end of the crankshaft is a circular weighted wheel called a flywheel. The flywheel delivers the engine's power to devices (wheels, blades, etc.) and helps keep the crankshaft turning smoothly.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Ryobi SS30 Straight Shaft Trimmer - $150.00

Ryobi SS30 Straight Shaft Trimmer in excellent shape. Great when you trim close to the tree base , around the house perimeter, and the driveway edge. Won't Last long ! Any further questions or inquiries, come to:

Terry's Small Engine Repair
401 New York Drive
Fort Myers , FL 33905

Call the phone number listed in the above portion of the ad.


Located 1/4 mile north of Palm Beach boulevard ( Corner of Walter and Railroad Street ).

We are a Stens distributor, the world's largest parts warehouse in the nation. We carry lawnmower blades( all sizes ), Primer Bulbs ( all sizes), cables ( throttle and control cables ), repair kits for most carburetors, kill switches for most lawnmowers, motor oil for 2 and 4 cycle mowers and trimmers, STP Gas Treatment and other items .

We now have the equipment to straighten lawnmower shafts . However, the shaft has to be at least 2 3/4 " from the top to the base of the shaft . We don't carry these items in stock. However, we are able to order them online from our warehouse.



Craftsman 21", Rear Wheeled Self-Propelled Mower - $ 250.00

Craftsman 21", Rear Wheeled Self-Propelled Mower. Briggs & Stratton Engine; OHV. 6.5 HP. Excellent running/working condition, ready to go! Any further questions or inquiries, come to:

Terry's Small Engine Repair
401 New York Drive
Fort Myers , FL 33905

Call the phone number listed in the above portion of the ad.

Located 1/4 mile north of Palm Beach boulevard ( Corner of Walter and Railroad Street ).

We are a Stens distributor, the world's largest parts warehouse in the nation. We carry lawnmower blades( all sizes ), Primer Bulbs ( all sizes), cables ( throttle and control cables ), repair kits for most carburetors, kill switches for most lawnmowers, motor oil for 2 and 4 cycle mowers and trimmers, STP Gas Treatment and other items .

We now have the equipment to straighten lawnmower shafts . However, the shaft has to be at least 2 3/4 " from the top to the base of the shaft . We don't carry these items in stock. However, we are able to order them online from our warehouse.


Monday, April 7, 2014

Tips and Advice on How To Improve Your Soil Quality from Troy-Bilt

Soil fertility is the foundation for healthy grass.  If your lawn is already established, improving soil quality is more challenging than if you are growing a new lawn. 

To boost the health and appearance of an existing lawn, follow these tips on how to improve soil quality.  A fertilization technique called top-dressing can increase your soil fertility without damaging your grass. 

Early autumn is the best time to top-dress your lawn because it will allow your grass to grow before winter hits.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Black & Decker EdgeHog ( Electric ) - $100 (E. FT. MYERS )

Black & Decker Edge Hog ( Electric ), Black & Orange; and in excellent working condition . Depth and front wheel are adjustable. Only one that I have ; won't last long. Come and get it . Any further questions or inquiries, come to:

Terry's Small Engine Repair
401 New York Drive
Fort Myers , FL 33905

Call the phone number listed in the above portion of the ad.

Located 1/4 mile north of Palm Beach boulevard ( Corner of Walter and Railroad Street ).

We are a Stens distributor, the world's largest parts warehouse in the nation. We carry lawnmower blades( all sizes ), Primer Bulbs ( all sizes), cables ( throttle and control cables ), repair kits for most carburetors, kill switches for most lawnmowers, motor oil for 2 and 4 cycle mowers and trimmers, STP Gas Treatment and other items .

We now have the equipment to straighten lawnmower shafts . However, the shaft has to be at least
2 3/4 " from the top to the base of the shaft .

We do not carry these items in stock . However, we are able to order them online from our warehouse within 1 to 3 days .

Tuesday, April 1, 2014

Bolens BL 160 Straight Shaft Trimmer 25cc - $150.00 (E. FT. MYERS)

Bolens BL 160 Straight Shaft Trimmer 25cc. Excellent running/working condition . Practically
brand new. Come get it ,won't last long . Any further questions or inquiries, come to:

Terry's Small Engine Repair
401 New York Drive
Fort Myers , FL 33905

Call the phone number listed in the above portion of the ad.

Located 1/4 mile north of Palm Beach boulevard ( Corner of Walter and Railroad Street ).

We are a Stens distributor, the world's largest parts warehouse in the nation. We carry lawnmower blades( all sizes ), Primer Bulbs ( all sizes), cables ( throttle and control cables ), repair kits for most carburetors, kill switches for most lawnmowers, motor oil for 2 and 4 cycle mowers and trimmers, STP Gas Treatment and other items .

We now have the equipment to straighten lawnmower shafts . However, the shaft has to be at least
2 3/4 " from the top to the base of the shaft .

We do not carry these items in stock . However, we are able to order them online from our warehouse within 1 to 3 days .